Reptile JAHnetics

0.1 - Super Yellow Belly (Medusa) 1.0 - Leopard Yellow Belly (Taz) 0.1 - Super Pastel het Clown (Pastey) 0.1 - Super Enchi het Clown (Enchi-Lada) 0.1 - Leopard Super Yellow Belly (Roxie) 1.0 - Leopard Super Yellow Belly (Kobe) 0.1 - Leopard Spotnose het Clown (Martha) 0.1 - Leopard Pastel Yellowbelly 50% het Clown (Cruella) 0.1 - Super Yellowbelly Pied (Euryale) 1.0 - Banana Pinstripe Clown (Howler) 0.1 - Super Pastel Desert Ghost (Storm) 0.1 - Mojave Hypo (Myrtle) 1.0 - Clown 100% Desert Ghost

When it comes to ball pythons, they would be considered an entry level reptile in terms of difficulty to care for. Be sure to have a proper size tub or tank for your ball python with a hot side of 90 degrees and a cooler side no less than around 72 degrees. A digital temperature/humidity gauge is highly recommended to track and maintain appropriate husbandry throughout. Your ball python should have a consistent humidity level of around 60%-65% for easy shedding cycles and proper hydration. Ball pythons can easily get a respiratory infection from too much humidity, definitely something to keep an eye on. Always include a water bowl for your snake to drink, soak, or wrap around; this also aides with humidity levels. Ball pythons prefer more of a mulch or coco husk rather than an aspen substrate depending on how dry the air is where you live. Avoid sand or any finer powder type substrate as it too plays a role with humidity levels. On average a ball python will eat every 5-10 days depending on age; younger hatchlings will eat more frequent than adults with the exception of breeding season. A typical diet for ball pythons consists of feeder rats/mice but can expand to others, however your snake could reject feeding off feeder rats/mice if diet is too exotic which makes life harder for both the python and the handler. Following these basic steps will provide an environment for your ball python to thrive! Good vibes only.